Marijashi is 2533 meters above sea level and is located on the border with Montenegro. The itinerary to the tops of the Cursed Mountains is certainly not the easiest, but the stunning panorama offered by white pine, fir, hornbeam, beech, birch, willow and many other woody species make the journey tireless. A real adventure.
The Cursed Mountains National Park, which covers a total of 62,488 hectares, is also rich in deer, golden eagles, wild goats and gray wolves. Inside the park, rarer species of animals such as lynx and brown bears can be found. You can also learn about the presence of fauna in these mountains from an informative photo, which is arranged along the road that leads to the mountains of Deçan. In it are displayed images of some animals and birds, whose home is in the magical mountains, in the Cursed Mountains. To the left of these images has already taken the place of the Interactive Digital Table, from which with just a touch of a finger you can be informed about these mountains.
Three seasons in one day
The landscape of the Prilep Mountains and all the Cursed Mountains becomes even more beautiful when the three seasons of the year are intertwined in a single day: spring, summer and winter. On the one hand you see dozens of flowers of the most diverse, on the other hand you encounter the thick snow a few centimeters, which for seven pairs of merry-go-rounds lies in the land of the Cursed Mountains, although we are almost at the end of the cherry month. Climb further, blowing spring freshness. You pause for a moment and the Summer Sun forces you to close your eyes. Wrinkle the upper part of the forehead. And ask for some water to drink. And if you go to the Prilep Mountains, you do not need to load the bag with water and keep it on your back for hours. Water can be found in abundance in the numerous wells found within the mountain space. So crystal clear and cold is the water that it is enough to count three or four seconds and instinctively come to take your hand away from the springs.
Hospitality of traditional lunches
After a few hours of climbing we reach the stalls (1890 billion). The stalls, according to residents, began to be built around 2000 after they were almost completely destroyed during the last war. With precision and delicacy they were rebuilt by the inhabitants of the surroundings. With trees, masterfully. The water system of most of these stalls is connected by the mountains. From numerous sources.
“A relative of mine from Switzerland, when he was here on vacation, constantly stopped the water so that the high bill would not come to us, he did not know that we get water from the mountains”, says Besnik, the owner of the lodge where we stopped for a while. rest.
There are currently no costs for the lighting system either. The lamps, in some of the guesthouses, stay on even during the day, as they operate on solar energy. Above all, what impresses in the midst of all this remains the hospitality of the hosts. It’s extraordinary…
We sat down to relax. We drank from a coffee brewed in the jews, took a break and headed up the mountains again. The surrounding space gave an extraordinary feeling.
After we returned to the stalls late in the afternoon, where we had drank coffee, it was just time for lunch. The time was around 17:00 and we all had our minds on the traditional food, which had already been ordered nearby by a part of the group. Under the chirping of birds and under the mixture of air currents, we ate enough pies with cow cheese and cream, a traditional pudding made from corn, village cheese, pickles and yogurt. Who wanted better ?! While he was not waiting for the bite, he could not avoid hearing the phrase repeated several times by those present: “what a delicious drink”! – “What fresh pickles! Are they only with water and salt or do they also have other ingredients? ”, The question to the hosts continued incessantly. “Take some from the pond”, you heard someone close to you say that you were ready to convince yourself to be full.
Medicinal flowers in the Deçan Mountains
As you explore nature you cannot walk without paying close attention to the variety of flowers. Small, big, white, sky blue, yellow, purple and what not. Their combination with the green cape everywhere, sometimes surrounded by some snowy space, offers a magnificent view.
Everywhere in the mountains there are beautiful flowers on the hills, in the fields and on the tops. There are also some of them who cried their heads forward and took their place right among the stones. According to Isuf Hulaj, a resident of the village of Prilep, this type of flower has healing properties, so it is highly sought after by doctors in the region.
“Immediately after the snow comes a flower, it is a healing plant. There were many doctors from Albania who came. He is a cardiologist who works in Tirana, I personally had contact with him, he came to our mountains and photographed that flower, then he came and paid 150 dollars per kilogram “, says Hulaj.
This is not the only medicinal flower according to the locals. With such the Cursed Mountains, or as they are often called the Albanian Alps, are filled to the brim.
Meanwhile, as we greet the mountains and under the rain, we run down the road and encounter a bunch of strawberries. Small in appearance, but that deep in the memory leave a unique taste. You can not cross the road without seeing the blueberries and raspberries. But they are late to ripen as this year was delayed to come both spring and summer season.
The municipality of Deçan, in addition to the mountains, has another natural beauty. The source of mineral water in this municipality adds to the charm of Deçan. Locals say the water is used for both drinking and healing.
To visit this city you will definitely visit the Monastery of Deçan, which was built in the XIV century and is also part of the list of protected UNESCO monuments.
Towers, cultural heritage property in Deçan
Each country, each city has distinctive features from the others. The tall towers, built of stone, continue to be an identifying mark for Deçan. In the village of Drenoc in this municipality there are families who still live in these types of towers. There are also those that work only for tourists. For guests. Such are the Mazrekaj Towers. Their interior spaces have waiting rooms, chambers, which are filled with cultural features.
Inside these walls the eyes can encounter round tables made of wood, which were used many years ago by almost every Albanian family; utensils used to boil beans and other dishes; sheep wool forks, which were used to knit clothes, and cradles, which were used to put children to sleep. Inside the towers are also the bedrooms for tourists, which are mostly paved with carpets. While guests at these towers are served traditional food, the hosts welcome and escort many visitors from both inside and outside the country.
Preservation of antiquity in Gjakova
The Dukagjini Plain is full of richness, both natural and historical-cultural. After a challenging climb to the mountains you can continue the visit the next day in the city of Gjakova. Inside the city is the Hadum Mahalla, where the Hadum Mosque is located, after which it is said that the construction of the city began. This mosque was built in 1595. As soon as you enter its courtyard you see numerous antique cemeteries and a host of tombstones leaning against the surrounding walls. This mosque, in which many citizens of Gjakova perform religious rites, was made of stone many centuries ago. In Gjakova you can also visit the Tabakëve Bridge, which was built in the 17th century, is another cultural heritage monument.
You can continue the walk inside the city in the Grand Bazaar or known as the Old Bazaar. The feeling that this part gives you is warm and pleasant. The atmosphere created in the evenings, the liveliness, the lights placed above the cobbled road, which separates the two rows of cafes, give a great view of the city. Years ago, the Bazaar was the engine of economic development in the city of Gjakova, whose inhabitants were engaged in handicrafts and trade. However, the city adds charm to the colors of the Jupa Bazaar. Next you can go to the Hani i Haraqisë Complex, which is located near the Hadum Mosque. What stands out in Han is the serving of baklava with plums and nuts inside.
To wrap up the visit to Gjakova you can choose Shkugëza. Spend the night in one of the hotels there first and in the early morning wake up to take a short walk towards the forest and obviously enjoy a coffee under the shield of the trees, the fresh air and under the wonderful melody created by the chirping of birds.